‘Tis the season for linen-love

Reblogged from Sew Tessuti

Don’t ask me how she did it but according to the maker herself, the above top – made in Night Stripe D’Ville – came together with a mere ONE metre of fabric! As I mentioned in my first post about Judith, this version is also free-formed and based on a tried-and-true style that she loves. I am very much adoring the sleeves and their variation in stripe.

And here’s another gorgeous top emulating a similar style. This version was created around the beautiful embroidered fabric that was originally made up in a long-ago gifted skirt from her late Mum and purchased in Thailand. The skirt no longer fit Judith and was way too special and gorgeous to throw away, so she cut it up and refashioned it into this beauty. The plain, loose weave linen is our Vintage Look and it provided the perfect colour and composition match for the coloured fabric.

And that necklace? It also belonged to Judith’s Mum and is actually the teeniest, most beautiful belt I’ve ever seen.

Read original post here.


Fabric 101: Double Cloth and Double Face Fabrics

Reblogged from Mood Designer Fabrics 

Double cloth fabrics are double-faced.
Double face fabrics are really single, not double.

The terms double cloth and double face cause a lot of confusion for home sewers. Here’s the story: Double cloth and double face both indicate a fabric that’s reversible or having two right sides. But the way each is woven is quite different.

Double-cloth fabrics are made of two fabrics threaded or fused together to form a thicker and more substantial fabric. You can actually take the fabric edge and peel apart the two fabrics. This allows you to create beautiful garments that are completely reversible, with no lining necessary.  Many types of wools and cottons can be made into double cloth, and in all sorts of combinations—like contrasting solids, or a smooth surface with a napped surface. Double-cloth cashmere is one of the most luxurious fabrics around and deserves careful planning and slow, thoughtful sewing.

Mood Fabrics 101: Double cloth fabric is when threads join two fabrics into one fabric.

Here you can see the threads that join two pieces of fabric into one double-cloth fabric.

Ralph Rucci double cloth coat.

A designer well-known for his double-cloth coats and jackets is Ralph Rucci, whose double-cloth garments look as elegant on the inside as they do on the outside. Fall 2103 collection.

Double-faced fabrics are also fabrics where either side can be used, but unlike double cloth, these fabrics have only one layer of fabric and cannot be separated. The types of double-faced fabrics are endless and are found in the wool, silk, cotton and knit departments, and at all price points. (Quality double-cloth fabrics tend to be on the more expensive side.) At Mood we love an attractive double-faced fabric, because it offers our customers so many design options when they have two sides of fabric to work from: Satin or matte side? Print or solid side? Jacquard or reverse jacquard? Think about incorporating a little or a lot of the contrasting side into your garment for a designer touch.

Double-faced satin from Mood Fabrics.

A beautiful double-faced satin in Chinese red and mint green.

The difference between double cloth and double-faced fabrics. This is double- faced wool.

Double-faced, wool-blend polka dots, from Mood NYC.

Poly double-faced print fabric from Mood Fabrics.

A polyester print double-faced fabric, with a large floral on one side and a smaller floral on the other.

– See more at: http://www.moodfabrics.com/blog/fabric-101-double-cloth-and-double-face-fabrics/#sthash.92TEzznO.dpuf

6 Tips and Tricks for Quilting with Linen

Reblogged from Angela Mitchell in Quilting

In the world of sewing, you don’t have to look very far before you come across a quilt or sewn project that features linen. It has become a sewing staple, and plenty of quilters like to use it in place of a regular solid.

Linen Quilt

Photo via Fussy Cut

What exactly is linen?

By definition, it is a fabric made from flax fibers. Linen is durable and wrinkles easily, since it doesn’t stretch much. The more linen is washed, the softer it becomes. In its natural state, the color of linen ranges from ivory, tan, beige or gray.

Why use linen? It is a great substitute for a solid fabric in a quilt. Whether it’s used in simplepatchwork, as sashing and borders, or the main background fabric, linen lends an added depth and dimension that differs from a plain solid. The different texture is a nice alternative to regularquilting cotton.

Quilted Linen Pillow

Photo via Fussy Cut

While true linen looks wonderful in quilts, it can be very tricky to sew with, due to its weight and texture. Not only does it get very wrinkly, it tends to shift and frays easily. Don’t let this scare you away!

Here are some tips to help your quilting with linen experiences go smoothly.

  • Use a new needle and a high quality thread.
  • Shorten the stitch length on your sewing machine to prevent puckering. Always test your stitches first on linen scraps.
  • Always prewash. Linen shrinks more than other substrates.
  • Don’t be afraid to use starch. This will stiffen up the fabric, making it much easier to cut accurately.
  • By nature, linen can become shiny when ironed. If this is an issue for you, try using a pressing cloth in between the iron and the linen. Another option is to press on the wrong side of the fabric.
  • Pair linen with regular quilting cottons in your project. The cotton stabilizes the linen and helps it hold shape.

If you are uncomfortable sewing with 100% linen, there are other fabrics on the market that can replace it. Here are my two favorite substitutes, give them a try!

Essex Yarn Dyed Linen and Essex Linen by Robert Kaufman – These are 45% cotton / 55% linen blends. It is the perfect mix, really. The fabric still looks and feels like linen, but the cotton makes it fray and wrinkle less than the real deal. I prefer the yarn dyed version, as it is especially soft. Both types come in a variety of colors.

Quilter’s Linen by Robert Kaufman – This one is printed to look like linen, but it is actually 100% cotton. It also comes in a bunch of different colors and sews up just like your regular quilting cottons.

Linen Coin Quilt

Photo via Fussy Cut

ᔥFor the complete article, click here.